Food Failures: Rise Your Bread Baking Skills With Science – Science Friday

10/04/2019

34:48 minutes

Flour, salt, yeast and water are the basic ingredients in bread that can be transformed into a crusty baguette or a pillowy naan. But what happens when you get a sticky sourdough or brick-like brioche? Chef Francisco Migoya of Modernist Cuisine breaks down the science behind the perfect loaf. He talks about how gluten-free flours affect bread structure, the effects of altitude and humidity on dough and how to keep your sourdough starter happy.

Plus, amateur baker and “Father of the Xbox” Seamus Blackley describes how he baked a loaf of bread from an ancient Egyptian yeast. He chronicled that journey on twitter, which you can see below. (BONUS: Scroll down for a Chocolate and Cherry Sourdough recipe!) 


We asked you to tell us about your bread woes and here’s one we could help with!

This happens because:

Map of the United States representing different boiling points of water in Colorado and Florida
Designed by Andrea Corona

Chocolate and Cherry Sourdough Recipe

From The Modernist Bread cookbook courtesy of The Cooking Lab

By adding cherries, we have taken the beloved combination of bread and chocolate in a new direction. This dough is only moderately sweet; the natural sourness of the dough tempers the sweet character of the inclusions. Given how many taste testers were waiting when these loaves came out of the oven, it’s a captivating combination. As a bonus, the bake-proof chocolate chips remain melted for a good while (while still holding their shape), adding to the indulgence of each bite.

Cherry and Chocolate Sourdough Slice
Credit: Modernist Cuisine

Total Time: Active (yeast) 27 minutes / Inactive 20 hours, 26 minutes
Desired Dough Temperature: 24–26°C / 75–78°F
Difficulty: Moderate
Ovens: Home
Yield/Shapes: 1 lg boule (1.00 kg)

Ingredients

  • 230g mature liquid levain
  • 185g water
  • 16g instant dry osmotolerant yeast
  • 225g bread flour
  • 30g cocoa powder
  • 15g brewed espresso
  • 7g fine salt
  • 160g bake-proof dark chocolate chips
  • 160g dried cherries

General Directions

Mix: Combine the levain, water, and yeast in a bowl; add the flour, cocoa powder, and espresso, and mix to a shaggy mass; autolyse 30 minutes; add the salt, and mix until homogeneous; transfer to a lightly oiled tub or bowl, and cover well with a lid or plastic wrap.

Bulk Ferment: Bulk ferment, covered, for 4 hours at 21°C / 70°F; perform 6 four-edge folds (1 fold every 30 minutes after the first hour); after the first fold, add the chocolate chips and cherries; mix with your hands using a squeeze, pull, and fold-over motion; rest the dough, covered, for 30 minutes after the final fold; check for full gluten development using the windowpane test.

Pre-shape: Begin shaping the boule.

Rest: 20 minutes, well covered.

Shape: Work the boule into its shape.

Final Proof: Proof for 12 – 16 hours in the refrigerator, well covered.

Score: Score with a cross across the top; be mindful that the blade can catch on the inclusions; transfer to the base of a preheated cast-iron combination cooker, and cover with the preheated lid.

Bake: Place the pan into a 260°C / 500°F oven; drop the temperature to 245°C / 470°F, and bake for 45 minutes with the lid on; remove the lid, and bake for an additional 10 minutes.

Notes

  • Multiply the recipe by two if needed.
  • Consume within 2 – 3 days, or freeze for up to 2 months.
  • Be sure to flour baskets / couches well because this dough tends to be a bit wet and sticky.
  • If you don’t want to cold-proof your dough, you can proof it at 27°C / 80°F (65% RH) for 5–7 h or at 21°C / 70°F for 6 – 8 hours.
  • When mixing, the cherries tend to cluster. Break them apart prior to adding them to the dough.
  • You can measure 1/16 tsp by measuring 1/8 tsp and dividing it in half.
  • If you can’t find osmotolerant yeast, you can use instant dry yeast and increase the final proofing time by 20–30 minutes.

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Segment Guests

Francisco Migoya

Francisco Migoya is the Head Chef at Modernist Cuisine. He is also the co-author of Modernist Bread (The Cooking Lab, 2017).

Seamus Blackley

Seamus Blackley is an amateur baker and physicist. He is also the inventor of the Xbox.

Meet the Producers and Host

About Alexa Lim

Alexa Lim is a producer for Science Friday. Her favorite stories involve space, sound, and strange animal discoveries.

About Andrea Corona

Andrea Corona is a science writer and Science Friday’s fall 2019 digital intern. Her favorite conversations to have are about tiny houses, earth-ships, and the microbiome.

About Ira Flatow

Ira Flatow is the host and executive producer of Science FridayHis green thumb has revived many an office plant at death’s door.

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